coasting: my first few days in salvador, bahia

I am living a few blocks from the central coast of Brazil, on a huge bay on the Atlantic Ocean. Salvador is the country’s third-largest city, and one of the cultural centers for Carnival early each year. In addition to this definitive celebration, the culture is rich with influences from West Africa, which have resulted in unique forms of artistic and religious expression: Capoeira – a dance-like “combat sport” (for lack of a better word… forgive me) – and Candomblé – a religion originating among Brazilian slaves that celebrates physical spirits, called Orixas, which correspond to each of the saints of the Catholic church.


My neighborhood, Barra, is surrounded by the ocean on three sides. The beaches are full of surfers, relaxed and friendly Baianos, and some of the tiniest bikinis I have ever seen. On the street along the beach you can buy fresh coconut juice to drink or a bowl of acai pulp with any fruit you like mixed in. Here is a photo:I have managed to taste some typical fresh Brazilian dishes at three different “comida a kilo” buffets over the last three days – including my first taste of feijoada, the popular Brazilian bean stew. (I think my standard meal plan will definitely incorporate lunch at one of these places every day this month.)


But besides “coasting” on the coast – which is lovely – I have felt strangely aware of my emotional ups and downs. Not that they are any higher or lower than normal, just that I have been noticing them more, a feeling which I might relate to that of being on a roller coaster. Upon my arrival in Salvador, as the plane taxied up to the airport jet way, I felt a sense of calm – I had made it safely. As my friendly taxi driver passed along the lively beachfront, and the car radio played typical Bahian music, I was intrigued and almost euphoric – I wanted to get out and dance in the street. When we pulled up in front of my apartment I felt suddenly fearful of the apartment-mates I had never met and the neighborhood with which I was completely unfamiliar. After moving my things into my room, I called my teacher and she came over to meet me and show me around – at which point I felt an incredible relief for her kind assistance. Upon waking up the next morning, however, I was nervous again – like the way you feel on the first day of school. When I showed up an hour early to class because I set my watch wrong, I was overcome with embarrassment and ran away quickly (to waste an hour walking by the beach). Later that morning, I learned my first words in Portuguese and felt elated – proud of my self for learning a new language, fascinated with the oddly cute Portuguese pronunciation. During our first break, my classmate invited me to take a ritmos baianos dance class with her and suggested we go together to register that afternoon (after some “comida a kilo” of course) – how wonderful to have a new friend, I thought!


It’s highly odd to be fully aware of the emotion you are experiencing right when you are experiencing it: calm, euphoric, fearful, relieved, nervous, embarrassed, elated, happy. As I am settling in to a routine here in Salvador, however, I believe this phenomenon has dissipated. Today, it occurred to me that I will be back in the U.S. in only a few short weeks. Although I know this will be far too short a stay in Brazil, I am excited to be “coasting” through September, counting down the few short days until I get to see my family and friends again.